Sapa 1

I got back to Hanoi from Halong and immediately set out to find some other interesting place to go. The other top destination in the north is Sapa, a mountainous former french outpost filled with various local hill tribes, a stone's throw from the chinese border. But nobody speaks chinese.

To get there, I took an overnight train. The guy who sold me the ticket told me the cheaper 6 person sleeper room was pretty much the same as the 4 person room. But he is a damn, stinking liar. I curse his parentage. My room was filled with cigarette smoking (despite the no smoking sign) radio listening, loud talking vietnamese guys who really didn't give a **** that I was in the room with them. And the beds had no cushion at all - just a piece of wood with a bamboo mat (see pic). Having been on a sleeper in India, I wasn't expecting that much. But let's just say it wasn't a comfortable night. Most annoying was the volume of the guys' conversation. At about 330 in the morning one of them got up for the bathroom and decided it was a good time to have a little conversation with his friend, REALLY LOUDLY!!!! I'm not exagerating when I say it actually hurt my ears. I understand that I'm a guest in their country and all, and I just let it all go, but in my heart I was basically torturing them to death. And when 4 AM rolled around and the radio went back on, playing my favorite vietnamese pop tunes, I had had about enough. I just stood outside of the room and watched the sunrise from the aisle way.

We arrived in Lao Cai about 6 AM and hopped on a bus which took us up a winding road for about an hour to Sapa. My hotel was ok - the incredible humidity had turned my room a bit green and the mildew smell was strong, but there was a big bed and a bathtub. I would have been happy to take a bath and sleep for a while, but I went on my little tour first (after waiting around for a couple of hours - everything here was poorly planned and no one could tell anyone any info other than sit and wait). The tour was fun - went to some hill tribes and a big central market. The women were all still dressed in the traditional clothes for the tourists but happily chatting away on cell phones. The men just wore t-shirts. It was nice and cool most of the time, but humid and we were walking up steep hills, so I was quickly soaked. Saw some waterfalls, ate some lemongrass satay and drank some homemade apple wine for a lunch time snack. Bought some random textiles and made our way back to the hotel about 1 for a full lunch. Which was ok but included in the package. I was watching my money, so I didn't go out for possibly more exciting food. And then I finally took a bath and slept. Which was great, despite the lumpy bed.

Woke up for more unexciting dinner and went out to walk around the town of Sapa by myself. I was very rainy and foggy, but nice and cool which was a pleasant break from Hanoi. Also kind of quiet. And the old french church rang bells that echoed nicely. Only got offered drugs and prostitutes once and I enjoyed my walk. Made my way home for more sleep.