sidewalks

the sidewalks in keelung are colorful tile dealies unlike sidewalks in most places. they receive heavy use beyond the average us sidewalk. everyone here has a scooter, and they all park on the sidewalk, so space that could accomidate 5 people side by side becomes too small for two people to pass each other. this is especially noticeable when you are behind someone moving very slowly, or children who run all over the place. believe me when i say that i'm very aware of how wide my shoulders are. there also doesn't seem to be any expectation that people will move out of your way. people just squeeze by when they can. at first i felt bad that i didn't know how to say "excuse me," but no one seems to say or expect it. i just try not to step on kids or knock little old ladies down, and feel ok about it.

the other aspect to parking scooters on the sidewalk is that the sidewalks are filthy. accumulated road dirt, combined with a lack of pet curbing, combined with the habit of spitting betel nut (the juice and the finished nut - it ends up looking like old tobacco), combined with the work that people do on the sidewalk (on my block alone people are welding (!) every day, food stands are washing dishes and pouring the water down the sewer grates in the street, and scooter mechanics do work in the middle of the sidewalk) changes the once colorful tiles to varying shades of gray. the betel nut is especially nasty, leaving bright red stains everywhere. i haven't noticed anyone chewing it yet, but i understand it looks like they have been punched in the mouth and are spitting blood. i understand that during the rainy season the sidewalks get very slippery and dangerous. i suspect i won't have to worry about passing people as i carefully pick my way down the street, trying to avoid breaking my neck. in addition to everything else, people burn papers on the sidewalks, filling the (already black with scooter exhaust, welding fumes, unknown chemical smells, and cigarette smoke) air with more thick smoke and adding ash to the mix of dirt on the road. breathing can be very challenging, especially when the air is humid and stagnant. it really makes you appreciate a breeze. all that said, the sidewalks do feel vibrant if chaotic. and if they can make it work here, seattle, with its' wide sidewalks and small scooter population, should change their sidewalk scooter parking policy. yeah.