I was trapped trying to come back from Sapa when this happened. I was in both Lao Cai and Yen Bai. I need to post more soon before I forget too much. http://www.irinnews.org/report.aspx?ReportId=79779

churches and temples

Apparently the communists in Vietnam are very tolerant of religion since there are buddhist temples and churches everywhere. This one was in Hanoi, but my favorite was up in Sapa. It was nice to hear the church bells echoing around the town at night. The temple is the one pillar pagoda, built to resemble a lotus blossom. It was destroyed by the french (out of spite) when they were driven out in 1954 The church is St. Joseph's cathedral, built by the french in 1886.

Hanoi Street video

I hope the sound works on this to give an idea of the honking horns, but even if not, you get some idea of the streets. no lights or signs, just people driving from all directions, often on both the right and left side of the road on all sides. total driving anarchy. It's amazing I only saw 2 or 3 accidents. crossing involves looking all directions, moving slowly so people can try to avoid you, and possibly prayer.

Vietnam post #1

So I'm back from Vietnam. The trip to the usa isn't going to happen because I missed my flight and couldn't reschedule this month. And I'll be tied down to Chinese classes for the next few months, oh well. It's so expensive and difficult to fly - it really is a bad time to travel.

For the record, I should mention that I finally got the Typhoon day I was bitching about on the last week at my job.

So, on to my trip. I flew into Hanoi, which is an interesting but tiring city. So much noise and chaos. It reminded me of many other cities mixed together. The streets felt like Calcutta, in some disrepair, but lively and filled with interesting smells and street stands. But also like Taipei, with ghost money smoke and masses of scooters and a certain east asian energy. And certain stretches had trees and buildings that reminded me of Tours, but maybe not Paris. And there was something about the strange tall, thin, long buildings that reminded me of Oman. And certain industrial stretches reminded me of the Bangkok Charlie and I visited in the early 90's. But actually, the chaos and noise were unique to Hanoi.

I stayed in the old quarter, which is located to the north of a large lake. It's interesting, but again, swarming with people grabbing at you, stepping in front of you, trying to sell you all types of things. The most common are the motorbike guys who greet you with "Hello motorbike!"on every corner or every time you step out of a hotel or restaurant. I met a dutch guy named Jan who would try to reply "Hello motorbike! How are you, Motorbike?" which kind of underlines how often you hear this phrase in Hanoi. There are also ubiquitous ladies with the conical hats and the balance scale carryalls who sell everything, but usually the tiny bananas and pineapples that seem to be all over Vietnam. I heard many foreigners talking about how great the fruit is in Vietnam, but I'm spoiled in Taiwan, which, I swear, has the most delicious tropical fruit in the world. Then there are guys selling rides on their cyclo (a bicycle rickshaw, basically) which I wasn't interested in but I heard was very expensive. Also, I felt there was something horrible about seeing a 120 lb. Vietnamese guy peddling a 250+ lb. white woman around the street. I decided I didn't want to be that 250+ lb. white woman. Occasionally, some guy would jump off the back of a scooter and follow you around trying to sell you photocopied books, that still weren't at much of a discount, actually. I burned through the one book I brought quickly (excellent) and was curious, but who wants to pay $10 us for a photocopy of a crap book? And finally, occasionally one of these different types of hawkers would try to sell me drugs or women. Not for me, but even if I was interested in that, I get the feeling that time spent in a Vietnamese prison would not be fun.