More shots of this place. It was really interesting to see the mix of what I think of as Indian style temples (including strange oblong shapes like an un-opened flower) with those pagoda roof Nepal style temples with the white version of a British style building. and
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Durbar Square4
More shots of this place. It was really interesting to see the mix of what I think of as Indian style temples (including strange oblong shapes like an un-opened flower) with those pagoda roof Nepal style temples with the white version of a British style building. and
Durbar Square 2
Durbar Square
This is the old palace area of Kathmandu. They really do have some amazing wood carving, some of which has survived for hundreds of years. I did finally break down and hire a guide here (I'm not a fan of the hard sell), who was okay but not great, though he did make sure to show me the erotic carvings.
Kathmandu 3 bicycle rickshaw
Of course I felt like a tool, but I did give the bicycle rickshaw a try. I didn't enjoy the touristy feeling, but I occasionally used it just to find my way back to my hotel. The roads all looked similar, were twisty and had no signs or names (!), and I got lost a couple of times. It was particularly bumpy on the cobblestones and massive potholes, but here are a few shots I took while riding.
Kathmandu 1
Some shots I took on my first walk in Kathmandu, including the road (which was mud, with giant holes) that was a main road through the most touristy area. All of the taxis were white, 80's era japanese (or Ford, maybe) compact cars. They were pretty ragged, with limited suspension. I wonder how these cars became the taxis in Nepal. Maybe someone got a good deal.
my hotel
My hotel was pretty nice, not fancy but it had style. No AC, but a fan. The electricity went off for large portions of the day. Also, limited hot water. My room had a TV. The location was next to but just outside of the busiest tourist area (Thamel), so it was convenient but not too noisy. There was a nice courtyard and they served a decent pot of masala tea. It was kind of dark, but nice. Other than the main boss (who seemed to be aggressively selling all the time, the staff was friendly.
I got off the plane and it felt like South Asia. They hit me up for a fee as soon as I got off the plane (they got me leaving as well) which i think is a mistake. I was also aware of how lucky I was when I was in India to be with other people who were planning and taking care of things that I didn't want to take care of. As my taxi took me to my hotel, I was amazed that the roads in the most touristy area were so beat up. I am aware that the country is poor, but usually countries invest in infrastructure to keep that tourist money coming in. The pic is of the Kathmandu airport.
Nepal 1
Post Mortem
Well, it's been a while. So catching up. Cambodia continued to be great. We biked all around Angkor and that was great. When I went back to Phnom Penh I was sad that I hadn't spent more time in Siem Reap. Anyway, I saw the Killing Fields which was pretty horrifying. There was a tower of skulls. Also bone fragments and clothing scraps visible in the dirt. And it was silent other than a recording of a Buddhist drum tok-tok-toking away. Very creepy and to say I was happy to see kids playing with a puppy as I drove away would be a major understatement. Anyway, that stuck with me. Walked around the city quite a bit, bought a betel nut box, and relaxed. It was all very nice. Then I went to Thailand. Then I came home to Taiwan, ready to get back to work.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Angkor Wat 1
The next day we got up fairly early. The hotel had a great breakfast - I ate a lot of fresh pineapple and papaya along with an omelet with many vegetables inside. Yum. My idea had always been to bike to Angkor Wat because I had remembered how fun it was in Sukhothai. As it turned out, it was also free as our hotel had two bikes left for us to take. Angkor was about 2k away, and there don't seem to be any hills in Cambodia, so it was a nice ride. Lots of traffic of course, but the air seemed okay. It was expensive to get in (40$ us for 3 days) and unfortunately we were only going to be there for about a day and a half, but it was worth it. Quite a shame that we hadn't allowed more time, but that is a place I would like to go back to. Anyway, it was a hot day, but there are lots of trees on the road and in the shade it's not so bad. When we got there, of course lots of people came up and started to try to sell stuff. We locked the bikes up and headed in...
Cambodia 2
The next day I got up and walked around. My neighborhood had lots of piles of garbage and recycling on the street. Odd place to build a hotel. Lyon showed up somewhere around 12:30 and we went to a pretty nice local place to eat some lunch. More Amok, and a tremendous amount of other food came. Cambodian food is good, though I didn't have anything that killed me in the way that Thai food does. It never gets that spicy, and seems to be more sweet and soft. Still, has lots of SE asian flavor, with the usual influence from China and India along with the local delicious flavors. After lunch we tried to get a mini bus, but we had missed the last one. Our only option was a taxi to Siam Reap, which would be extra expensive because it was Chinese new year. Everyone I spoke to seemed to think that they had a Chinese great-great-grandfather, though they didn't look too Chinese and weren't actually going to be celebrating the New year. Anyway, it was a good chance to charge more. We paid 80$ for the trip which took about 5 hours and was interesting for as long as it was light. Reminded me of driving through rural India a bit, lots of farmers and cows and tropical looking villages. Then it got dark and the lack of lights combined with the continued presence of farmers and cows walking in the street made it pretty harrowing. Anyway, we made it in one piece and the hotel (which Lyon had generously offered to let me share with him) was very nice.
Cambodia 1
My flight arrived in the early evening, maybe a little bit after 6. The Pnomh Penh airport was small and immediately after I got off I was besieged by taxi or tuktuk drivers trying to get me. Finally went with this tuk tuk guy who didn't speak English but seemed smiley enough. 7$ seemed to be a set price to town, but maybe i got ripped off. Not terrible, anyway. The ride was interesting enough and bumpy and I got to my hotel just as it got dark. My room was not particularly nice - no full sized bed (which I had requested), window painted black, and mosquitoes. The hotel was in an inconvenient location, but I took a tuk tuk down by the river to walk around. Lots of shops selling pirated software, movies, and books. All in the open, but much more laid back than Bangkok. Almost peaceful except for the regular chirps of "tuk tuk?" and "motorbike?" as I walked down the street. Tried some Amok (pretty good, but very mild after the fire of thai food) and I relaxed. Went home early so I could meet Lyon.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
another weekend
I had another interesting Saturday. Woke up early yesterday to go to the beach, but when I stepped outside and looked at the sky (chance of showers) and thought about the money and time it would take, I changed my mind. Thought some more and decided to go to a pool party at some country club near taipei 101. Took the MRT, then a bus, then walked up a steep hill, and arrived at this place. Not that cheap, but I got a free drink (sparkling water with lime, not in the mood for booze in the sun), and I found a seat. On the way there I had met some guys who study Chinese at a Catholic University (Fu Ren) which I used to pass by on the bus every day on the way to work. Some Germans, several Africans of various countries, an Israeli guy, French guy, some other guy, they were diverse and lacking in Canadians or Americans which is unusual for a group of foreigners in Taiwan. I chatted with a guy from Liberia for a long time. He had traveled all over Africa, and although he dropped out of high school, had worked as a teacher in Africa. Then he sold precious stones in Hong Kong for several years until the downturn hurt the business and he came to Taiwan. With imperfect English, he had managed to hook up several teaching jobs here and was saving money. I admire his ability to hustle and move around to keep his head above water. A pretty smart and nice guy. The party was okay, I'm a little old for it I guess, not much interest in beer bongs at this point. There were some girls in bikinis and the usual drunken louts trying to meet them, but not in any great numbers. I did like relaxing in the pool, and one of the dj's was pretty good. It was a little cool though and I found myself missing the seriously hot days. I ate a vegetarian hoisin duck wrap and left around 5:30.
Managed to get back home and take a shower before I went to see a free performance by the Cloud gate dance troupe at a stadium here in Banchiao, only 5 minutes away by scooter. Here is a link to part of one of my favorite pieces they did: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWAhUA05R4c&feature=related.
Too bad I was so far away, but it was free and very interesting, even if I couldn't see the movements clearly and could really only enjoy it as tableaux. I find myself strangely moved by dance, even if I have no idea about some kind of narative, people moving in the interest of looking beautiful and doing it well touches me. Cloud gate are very interesting, mixing ballet and modern and (what looks to me like) martial arts and probably other things that I don't know into their dance. They also have excellent set design, and being far away sometimes helps you appreciate the layout of the whole stage. And the music was very interesting. Free shows are free, though, and attract lots of families. Kids, understandably to my way of thinking, are bored and talk constantly and run around playing, which is a little bit annoying if you actually want to see and hear. I'll have to pay and see them in a concert hall next time, still, very interesting.
I went home and read and watched a crummy movie and went to sleep. Not a bad Saturday and no hangover for Sunday.
Today I mostly just relaxed, but I did go out with RC to try a new "Cuban" restaurant in town. It irritates me a little bit because I have had this idea to open one for several years now, I'll be curious to see how it does. Actually, the only really Cuban food they have is a Cuban sandwich, with good, but not authentically Cuban as I know it, bread. The sandwich tastes good, not that cheap though. The rest of the menu is adequate Mexican food, other than Mojitos which seems to be a main selling point for the place. They have some Cuban decorations and music (and a lot of Mexican music), though I think they need to redo the lighting and painting to make the place feel right. The people who work there are very friendly and the manager gave us a little discount for a small thing, which was very nice and I will remember. I will go back for that sandwich and to see how they do.
Managed to get back home and take a shower before I went to see a free performance by the Cloud gate dance troupe at a stadium here in Banchiao, only 5 minutes away by scooter. Here is a link to part of one of my favorite pieces they did: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWAhUA05R4c&feature=related.
Too bad I was so far away, but it was free and very interesting, even if I couldn't see the movements clearly and could really only enjoy it as tableaux. I find myself strangely moved by dance, even if I have no idea about some kind of narative, people moving in the interest of looking beautiful and doing it well touches me. Cloud gate are very interesting, mixing ballet and modern and (what looks to me like) martial arts and probably other things that I don't know into their dance. They also have excellent set design, and being far away sometimes helps you appreciate the layout of the whole stage. And the music was very interesting. Free shows are free, though, and attract lots of families. Kids, understandably to my way of thinking, are bored and talk constantly and run around playing, which is a little bit annoying if you actually want to see and hear. I'll have to pay and see them in a concert hall next time, still, very interesting.
I went home and read and watched a crummy movie and went to sleep. Not a bad Saturday and no hangover for Sunday.
Today I mostly just relaxed, but I did go out with RC to try a new "Cuban" restaurant in town. It irritates me a little bit because I have had this idea to open one for several years now, I'll be curious to see how it does. Actually, the only really Cuban food they have is a Cuban sandwich, with good, but not authentically Cuban as I know it, bread. The sandwich tastes good, not that cheap though. The rest of the menu is adequate Mexican food, other than Mojitos which seems to be a main selling point for the place. They have some Cuban decorations and music (and a lot of Mexican music), though I think they need to redo the lighting and painting to make the place feel right. The people who work there are very friendly and the manager gave us a little discount for a small thing, which was very nice and I will remember. I will go back for that sandwich and to see how they do.
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